How To Pass A Belay Certification Test Like A Pro
Whatever you do, definitely do not belay like this guy.
You will not only possibly seriously injure or kill someone, but you won’t have any climbing friends and your climbing gym will most likely black list you.
You’ve been warned.
Belaying is arguably the most important skill in climbing so learning how to belay— and how to belay well— is essential!
You’ll need to be able to demonstrate your ability to safely and effectively:
- Tie in correctly with a figure-8 follow-through knot backed up with a safety knot.
- Perform the the PBUS belay method.
- Perform the correct lowering technique with a belay device.
- Identify all pre-climb checks and commands.
Disclaimer: This blog post is intended to be informational and is not a substitute for proper training from a professional rock climbing guide. Mastering proper climbing technique requires training and lots of practice. You are responsible for your own safety.
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How To Tie A Figure 8 Follow-Through Knot
First, watch the video below for step-by-step instructions on how to tie a figure-8 follow through knot.
Next, it’s time to back it up with a safety knot.
Common safety knots
- Double Fishermans Knot (demonstrated above)
- Overhand Knot (demonstrated below)
Lastly, once you’ve tied a Figure 8 follow-through knot through both your waist and leg loops on your harness followed by a safety knot, it’s time to check for 10 parallel lines.
- 8 lines on the figure 8
- 2 lines on the safety knot
What is the BPUS Belay Method?
- P– Pull
- B– Brake
- U– Under
- S– Slide
Watch this video to see a proper demonstration of the PBUS Belay method.
How To Properly Lower
Once you’ve shown off your awesome belay skills, you’ll demonstrate lowering a climber with one of two belay devices:
Lowering with an ATC
- Wait for your “climber” to communicate with you that they’re ready to lower.
- Reply “lowering”.
- Bring both hands under the belay device grabbing the rope.
- Slowly allow the rope to slowly feed through the device until the climber is safely back on the ground.
Lowering with a Grigri: A Semi-Automatic Belay Device
- Assisted breaking
- Reduces the chances of a fatal drop but NOT foolproof
- Wait for your “climber” to communicate with you that they’re ready to lower.
- Reply “lowering”.
- Slide the free end of the rope so that it’s now on top of the beveled lip of the Grigri.
- Grab the black lever and pull it back gently with your left hand which will allow the rope to feed through the device and lower the climber to the ground.
- Be sure your break hand (right hand) never leaves the rope!
- Keep your right hand down toward your right hip to control the speed of your climber lowering.
- Allow the rope to slowly feed through the device until the climber is safely back on the ground.
What Are The Pre-Climb Checks and Commands?
Using climbing safety checks and commands are a crucial part of climbing safety. Always go through your safety checks before the climber begins to climb.
Pre-Climb Safety Checks
The climber will check the belayer and the belayer will check the climber. Now that’s freaking teamwork!
Belayer Safety Checks:
- Harness is on correctly and waist loops are double backed on the waist and leg loops.
- If using an ATC, be sure the rope is through both the ATC and the carabiner.
- If using a Grigri, tug on the climber’s end of the rope to be sure the rope direction is set up correctly.
- Be sure the locking carabiner is through the belay loop and is locked by pushing on the gate and listening for a *click*.
- Check for a safety knot tied at the end of the rope
Climber Safety Checks:
- Harness is on correctly and waist loops are double backed on the waist and leg loops.
- Rope is through leg and waist loops.
- Figure 8 follow-through knot with a safety knot is tied correctly and
- is tight
- is dressed
- has 10 parallel lines
Rock Climbing Safety Commands:
Preparing for your Belay Certification Test
Here are some things that you will want to consider before your belay certification test:
- Do you need to schedule an appointment in advance or can you do a walk-in test?
- What time of day can you do a belay test?
- How long does a belay certification test take?
- What gear do you need to bring?
- What gear will be provided?
- What is required to pass your gym’s belay certification test? Is there a printable or online resource available for you to review?
- Do you have a buddy at the gym who has passed the belay certification test? If so, ask them what their experience was like and if they have any pointers for you.
Belay Certification Test Tips
- If lead climbing is available at your gym, be sure to ask if you’ll need to know how to catch a lead fall as a part of the belay certification test.
- Verbally explain what you are doing every step of the way. This informs the staff member who’s testing you that you know what you’re doing.
- If you don’t pass your belay certification the first time, don’t worry! You’ll get another chance to take it again soon (usually the next day).
- Good news: When we make a mistake that causes us to fail our test, we become so hyperaware (and embarrassed) of that rookie mistake that we’re likely to never make that mistake again. #teachablemoments
Related: Women’s Climbing Events & Courses Every Female Climber Should Know About
I hope you found the tips for how to pass a belay certification helpful. If you have any questions or comments, I’d love to hear them in the comments below. 🌻
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